An example of a built and painted Wooden Wars infantry. This uniform is based in the Isemburg Regiment. |
Welcome to the tutorial on assembling Wooden Wars infantry
figures. The Wooden Wars rule book has a chapter devoted to assembly, but due
to space I couldn’t add as many images or comments as I can here. These general assembly guidelines cover the
basics in tools and skills needed to assembly any Wooden Wars model. This
particular tutorial features the infantry soldier, but is germane to any foot
soldier model, such as foot officers and artillery crew.
You can also download PDF versions of this and other tutorials
on the Skull & Crown Webstore under the free downloads tab.
Assembling a Wooden
Wars Model
Part of the fun
appeal to a Wooden Wars is assembling your army. This brief guide provides some
handy tips for assembly of an infantry model.
Remember, Wooden Wars models are designed for ages 14+, but
should always have parental supervision when assembling, especially when sharp
objects are involved.
Tools
Remember you will need a sharp knife, a suitable cutting
surface, some fine grade sand paper, and a bottle of carpenter’s type wood
glue. I find the chisel type blades are best for cutting the models from the
sprues.
First, gather all your tools you’ll need for the job. Flip
the model over the back side and identify the tabs where the pieces are being
held onto the sprue. They usually have one or two tabs. Using a sharp craft
knife , make a cut on the tabs on the back of the sprue, then flip it over and
cut on the front to remove the pieces.
Remember- Be very careful when handling blades and always
cut AWAY from any fleshy parts!
Sanding
After you have cut and removed all the pieces, sand down the
tabs that attached the model to the sprue, if needed, using a medium or fine
sand paper (150- 220 grit is fine). I find that it’s a lot easier to lay the
sand paper flat and move the piece to be sanded.
After sanding the tabs, lightly sand all the model pieces.
This makes them easier to paint later, if you should wish
PRO TIP: you can
sand all the fronts and backs of models pieces on the sprue before cutting them
out- it saves time and the chance of dropping things.
Test Fitting and Gluing
I find it best to start with the largest pieces and work
down toward smaller, fiddlier parts. With many models you will have choices of
arms, hats, weapons, plumes, etc. so play around first the models and “pose”
them a bit until you get something you like, before gluing. Remember, that if
these guys are going to be lined up together you don’t want too many sword arms
whacking the guy next to him.
Save any extra bits for later conversions!
PRO TIP: My kids love the sprues and use them for drawing templates!
After testing poses and piece fit, begin to glue, using “yellow”
carpenter’s glue. I stuck mine in one of those smaller “kid-sized” bottles for
easy handling. Be sparing with the glue
to keep the pieces clean, and spread it evenly across the parts to be glued. Hold the parts together firmly for about 10
seconds go get a good bond. If you don’t you may find that in battle a plume or
an arm may come off! ( Wisdom is the knowledge that I’ve made this mistake
before… If this does happen, simply glue the piece back on and send them back
into the action!
Basing
When fitting the figure into the base, test fit the slot
first as there are sometimes subtle differences in the thickness of the wood,
it’s best to make sure the pieces fit well before gluing; if necessary, sand the
tab of the soldier slightly then glue the model firmly into place. On larger
models like horses and giant robots, I’ll lean a couple of paint bottles up
against them to keep them standing straight while the glue sets.
Once the glue dries (try to give it at least 4 hours) your
models are ready for some paint- or to go straight into battle!
PRO TIP: when
building and painting units of troops, I find it easier to paint the bases
first before gluing the soldiers onto them.
French Infantry Batallion |
British infantry Regiment |
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